Larry Toto wrote:

> There are several cracks in the soundboard so that may need replacing,
> but the pin block is cracked and delaminating.  I thought I'd better
> check with the cumulative knowledge and experience of MMD before I
> make a move.

Dear Larry,  You did not specify as to your previous experience in this
area, so I am assuming that this is among your first.  Even if the
pinblock is NOT delaminating in an old grand, I do highly recommend
replacement.  Grand block replacement is really not a big deal though I
won't go into details on this list (see Reblitz 2nd ed. P.267-271).

I have used Deligit blocks for years (Schaff Piano Supply).  They are
made from European Beach rather than maple and are extremely hard and
dense, (guaranteed to dull any bandsaw blade real quick).  I have
always had great luck with them, however, some piano technicians argue
that they don't like the feel of the tuning pins.  I haven't noticed
any problems but it deserves mentioning.

Another popular block is those made by Bolduc.  These are extremely
high-quality traditional maple blocks, and have become very popular for
rebuilding.  I plan on trying one of these on one of my next rebuilds.

As far as soundboards go: replacement is a _big_ job.  Note that I am
not discouraging replacement; if it needs to be done then it needs to
be done.  I suggest three items for consideration when deciding on a
replacement:

1. Excessive cracking, including the brittleness and degradation of the
wood with respect to future cracking.

2. Positive crown in the board.

3. The reliability of glue joints, including the gluing to the inner
rim/belly, as well as the gluing of the ribs.

If there are any extremes in any one of these areas, and certainly in
combination, then a replacement should be considered.  If things are
not too excessively bad there are certainly repairs that can be made.

My first choice in board replacement would be Bolduc.  If you are not
experienced in board replacement than you should absolutely be farming
this job out.  Board replacement requires a lot of precision work in
very close tolerances.  It also requires a soundboard press, rib
crowning jigs, and lots O' clamps.

One added note: If you are replacing a board, recap the bridges as
well, without question.  You will be very glad you did, and it will
also make setting downbearing a lot easier.

If the board seems to be in relatively good shape other than a few
cracks, I would recommend looking into the soundboard routing/shimming
methods and tools by Bill Spurlock, RPT (Spurlock Specialty Tools,
707-452-8564).  This system involves routing out the cracks (via a
special bit and router jig), and then inlaying an identically routed
shim into the cut.

Once planed and sanded down the repair not only looks very
professional, but it is also a very neat and reliable repair.
(See PTG Journal, May & June, 1992).

Best of luck,

Rob Goodale, RPT

 [ RPT is Registered Piano Tuner, and I believe that means Rob has
 [ met all the professional training requirements and exams established
 [ by Piano Technicians Guild (PTG).  -- Robbie