[ Ref. Michael Taylor's query in 010804 MMDigest]

I feel I should recommend the use of shellac above all other finishes.
I dabbled with polyurethanes and found them far more difficult to use
than normal shellac.

If you are going to use shellac, Mr. Taylor, and you want it to be
clear, get the lightest grade of shellac you can without it having
gone through a 'bleaching process' to lighten it.  The bleaching causes
the mixed solution to esterize and become unusable much faster than
the untreated flakes.  Now I don't know what the humidity is like
around there, but moisture _kills_ shellac finishes if it's very
intense.  But this is only in like 90% relative humidity for long
duration.  If your humidity is somewhat high, and even if it's not,
be sure to use 'de-waxed shellac' as it apparently is much more
resistant to moisture damage than normal shellac.

I recommend you check out http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/ for shellac
flakes.  Don't be afraid about making your own shellac from flakes.
I promise you it's a snap and even a little fun.  If you are able to
shellac the insides of your pipes, I recommend doing that.  I've seen it
done on the insides of almost all church organ pipes I've taken apart.

This is probably the only thing I find consistent in the design of
wooden church organ pipes.  They _slopped on_ an incredibly thick coat
of light shellac.  And believe me, that stuff did its job and protected
the pipes.  Remember that one of the great advantages to shellac is
that you can mix it so that it's incredibly thick and it will still dry
just fine.  I make it very thick so that when it goes on, it protects
like a coat of armor.

MMDians, I apologize for my support of urethanes over shellac!

Warmest regards,

Marc Elbasani

P.S.  There are many advantages to shellac.  Among them is the ease of
restoring a damaged finish.  Contact me for further discussion if you
like.