I will attempt to explain the approach I use when presented with
the problem described by Eli.  First I want to confess that I am
not completely familiar with the terminology Eli uses but I think
I understand his problem.

The tools that I use most frequently in roll repair are

1. A roll repair jig which consists of the feed spindles and the
take-up spool from an old upright.  This allows you to feed the roll
paper across the repair surface.  If this is not available lay the
damaged section flat on preferably a wood or hardboard surface.

2. A Bard Parker surgical knife handle (these now come in a disposable
plastic style and a nurse can usually get you one for free) and a #10
blade.

3. An iron as is used in ironing cloths, the temperature set just below
where it would burn the paper.

4. Highland Invisible Tape #6200 by 3M or, in its absence, Scotch
Mending tape.

One of the most frequent things to happen when the bridges are missing
or have collapsed is that most of the long run of that note will no
longer play.  Frequently the two sides of that note have come together
and sometimes actually touch.  This in turn has pulled every thing else
inward and the remainder of the notes no longer track in their proper
place.

The first thing to do is to use hot iron to flatten out the paper.
Make every attempt to return the roll to its full width and in doing so
the long note run will usually return to its correct width.  Sometimes
it takes a little digital manipulation to put things where they need
to be.

Now, to repair those bridges, lay out a strip of your Highland tape
a few inches long on a hard surface against which you can cut.  (This
tape is really great stuff, thinner than regular Scotch mending tape.)
With your surgical blade cut across the tape, i.e., from side to side,
at intervals of about 1/16 inch or the width of the bridge you wish
to repair.

At this point the tape is still stuck to the cutting surface.  Slide
the tip of the blade under one end of your little bridge repair piece
and peal it off the surface letting it adhere to the knife.  Using the
knife blade transfer the piece to the area to be repaired and press it
into place.  You need not repair every bridge, the tape has enough
strength to maintain the integrity of that note run even if you only
place a bridge repair every inch or so.  I hope this helps.

I have an article coming out in the next AMICA Bulletin on roll box
repair.  I hope to follow that in the next bulletin with an extensive
article on roll repair.  Any suggestions, techniques, or ideas would be
appreciated and will be tried out for possible inclusion in the
article.

Regards, Tom Hutchinson