Mechanical Music Digest  Archives
You Are Not Logged In Login/Get New Account
Please Log In. Accounts are free!
Logged In users are granted additional features including a more current version of the Archives and a simplified process for submitting articles.
Home Archives Calendar Gallery Store Links Info

Spring Fundraising Drive In Progress. Please visit our home page to see this and other announcements: https://www.mmdigest.com     Thank you. --Jody

MMD > Archives > December 1996 > 1996.12.03 > 19Prev  Next


Hot glue, PVC-E, and Books
By Richard Moody

On the topic of moldy glue and stinking glue (hide or hot glue): There are different kinds of hide or animal glue sold through supply houses. The best kind is the clear light amber and uniform colored granules. On the first use, the glue is a light golden color. On second and third uses, it gets darker and darker. The odor of it is not offensive.

There another which is inferior. Its granules are much darker, less uniform in color, melts into a darker color, and seems sometimes to be "stringy", very aptly described in the last digest. This doesn't smell so good. I threw it out. I have a paper bag of granules with "Cooper's Glue" written in pencil. Can't remember where I got it, but it is very ideal as a hot glue in especially in the way you can work with it in the pot over a long day.

The price of 1 pound of "ground glue" from APSCO, American Piano Supply Co,. is $4.60 retail. However if this is the darker granules and "stinks" when prepared, it is not recommended. Player Piano Co. sells hide glue, I would expect theirs to be top quality.

One subscriber mentioned bellows glued up with plastic glue. If it is working now don't worry. If it hasn't come apart by now, it shouldn't. Plastic glue became popular in player piano rebuilding when nylon cloth for pneumatics was introduced. PVC-E was the glue of choice for that cloth. It found many other uses. Some in the profession did use it to glue on bellows cloth. It was used because it passed the pull test (if applied right) and gave a much longer working time than hot glue, and was more predictable in consistency and setup. It is much easier to use. It is very airtight in part because it is very flexible, but tenacious at the same time. It can be used to seal where shellac was originally used. (Simplex valve covers for example). It can be used thinned to cover crumbling shellac. (Simplex valve wells)

For those interested in having their instruments restored in the traditional way, hot glue will be the only glue. If fish glue was used you have to know where. Shellac was used as a sealant and an adhesive in a few places. Sealing wax or bees wax seems like it should have had uses, but I have never seen it.

There is a trick or knack to hot glue. It is thin for two reasons, it is either a little too hot, or has a little too much water in it and thus is not quite hot enough. The water is always evaporating out of it, so it is different in as little as 15 minutes. New glue seems to have more of a range of thickness through different temperatures. Old or re-heated glue seems to melt at a higher temp, and is more easier to tell when it needs thinning as opposed to more heat, and thins in a more predictable manner. Hot glue melted for the first time has different properties than glue melted a second and third time. Each time the glue is re-heated and used, it seems to dry more brittle. An old master and or experience is the best teacher with hot blue. If you like to cook you should like working with hot glue.

I have had mold (but only a little) form on the surface of cold glue. I have wiped it off with a wet paper towel and heated it up. Again if the glue smells, I don't use it. Just start all over. I try to mix it so I have less than 1/4 cup of it when I am through.

Books -- The best literature I have seen on hot glue is in the 1911-1918 Piano Manufacturers Conference. It was published by American Wire and Steel, and sold as reprints through the piano supply houses. However I don't see it in the Schaff or APSCO catalogue. Which is distressing because mine is misplaced. The section on glue is a lecture by a manu- facturer of glue, detailing how it was made, the different grades, and how it should be used, especially in pianos.

Someone asked about the Reblitz Piano Tuning and Rebuilding book. It's the best I have read. Beginners can't go wrong, and for "seasoned pros" it is an invaluable reference. The term RTFM (Read The * Manual) has popped up among computer users. The Reblitz book _IS_ The "FM" ;-) The Reblitz Player Piano Rebuilding book has very good reports. Another good manual specific for player pianos are the Player Piano Company catalogues through the !983-85 edition. Now if they would just issue reprints...

Of course you can't get much better than this forum, nay, you can't get ANY better than this digest.

Richard Moody ptt

[ Editor's note: "F" always stands for the same thing...
[ ;-)    :)    :-)    8-) are all variations on smiley faces

(Message sent Wed 4 Dec 1996, 03:59:37 GMT, from time zone GMT-0600.)

Key Words in Subject:  Books, glue, Hot, PVC-E

Home    Archives    Calendar    Gallery    Store    Links    Info   


Enter text below to search the MMD Website with Google



CONTACT FORM: Click HERE to write to the editor, or to post a message about Mechanical Musical Instruments to the MMD

Unless otherwise noted, all opinions are those of the individual authors and may not represent those of the editors. Compilation copyright 1995-2024 by Jody Kravitz.

Please read our Republication Policy before copying information from or creating links to this web site.

Click HERE to contact the webmaster regarding problems with the website.

Please support publication of the MMD by donating online

Please Support Publication of the MMD with your Generous Donation

Pay via PayPal

No PayPal account required

                                     
Translate This Page