Tung Oil Finish
By Craig Smith
The Better-Than-Crude-Oil Finish
Hi again, I have been watching the discussion on this topic and the mention of linseed oil prompts me to reply.
Boiled linseed oil never really gets hard or dry. If you have ever noticed the sticky, black areas of a chair that is touched often, that may be the reason. Just take a whiff of the furniture in an antique show or shop where the seller has a lot of recently 'refinished' oak.
I believe that a much better material is tung oil or teak oil, they 'dry' or polymerize by chemical action. You can buy either from wood finishing supply houses. Both will 'dry' nicely although the teak oil is a little faster , I am told, because it is partially polymerized. It will certainly 'dry' in the can if you give it half a chance.
So, you want to clean up the finish of a piece? Mix up the following in *equal parts:*
* White vinegar (dissolves any water based gunk)
* Turpoline or paint thinner (dissolves any oil based junk)
* Tung Oil (leaves a thin finish on any bare spots or cracks)
Shake it up and apply with a rag. Rub it in and then wipe it off. The dirt will come off in the cloth and it will leave a thin finish that you can finish over if you want. This will usually eliminate scratch marks like the almond stick does. Hope this helps.
Craig Smith |
(Message sent Mon 17 Feb 1997, 17:26:13 GMT, from time zone GMT-0800.) |
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