Another method to rebuilding Ampico B valves is to place about 5 units
at a time in the micro-wave oven.  If the top valve seat and elbow
nipple and ball bleed have been removed, the only remaining metal is
the brass fixed bleed and that will not present a problem.  Cook for
about one or two minutes.

If the block unit valve is cooked the right length of time, it will be
uncomfortable to hold it for more than about 5 seconds.  The valve can
be sliced open like soft butter with semi-sharp thin knife with no wood
damage.  Leaving the gasket intact will hold the two pieces together
allowing the unit to be opened like a butterfly  pork chop.

After the new pouch is installed, the two halves can be hot glued and
folded together and tightly squeezed in a vise.  After 15 minutes the
valve can be removed from the vise.  24 hours later sand all sides, top
and sand off the gasket. Re-glue the inside (bottom) valve seat. Use
compressed air to blow the unit clear of sanding residue.  Insure the
air passage for the ball bleed is clear.  Use shellac on a pipe cleaner
to shellac the hole.

Install a new gasket (available from Bob Streicher).  Install newly
leathered valve body and then gap at .035 - .040 inches with a dial
micrometer.  Shellac the outside of the unit including the top seat
rim.  Reinstall the OLD ball bleed that has been ultrasonic-cleaned
and dried.  (Historically, new ball bleeds are defective and tend
to stick open, although the maker says the problem is now fixed;
contact Bob Steicher for more information).

This will result in a brand new valve with perfectly matching glued
surfaces and an invisible pouch seam.  Mouth test the valve.  It should
be almost 100% air tight.  This test will verify both the ball bleed
and the lower valve seat as well as the glued seams.  If the old ball
bleed is leaking (doubtful) , replace it.  Continue testing until
perfection obtained.

It's not esoteric, just time consuming, and yet another method

Bob Taylor