Hi Robbie, One final observation about governor resistors; I always
know it's burned out when, after just a few rolls, the lever is getting
really warm -- or maybe hot.
As we discussed, I think the reason for this is that the tungsten
contacts to power the motor do double duty as an arc welder, too.
When you look down into the box and see fire all the time, you know
why the arm is too hot.
When the resistor is in there too, I think the heat is controlled,
such that the arm heats evenly and slowly, and then doesn't keep
getting hotter as the hours go by. So when the resistor is connected,
I suspect that about half the heat is still coming from the points,
and the other half from the resistor.
The series power tap resistor has about 5 taps, if I remember. The
stink is usually from some yo-yo taping down his short circuit along
the body of the resistor. I just told Terry Smythe that as soon as he
finds another pair of taps to provide the given ohms, then just let it
stink for awhile if he can't find the reason. It won't hurt anything,
and it will finally go away by itself.
In regard to oils, by the way, nobody has mentioned my fave --
Marvel Mystery oil. It's a top lube that cannot get gummy, cannot
be acidic, and MUST stay oily forever, or you couldn't burn it in a
combustion chamber without destroying the engine. To be a top lube,
is must be much more non-gummy and residue-producing than ANY sperm-oil
or sewing-machine oil ever was, and it must lubricate at super high
temperatures. Yes, it's thin, and perfect for un-gumming old greasy
3-in-1 oil is the worst possible oil anybody could use. It is very
cheap. Synthetic oil would be my next choice. But, it has to be 100%
synthetic, not like Valvoline and Castroil, which contain just enough
to legally claim it. The ad showing Mobil 1 being cooked on a stove is
true. And this is how a good oil is determined -- breakdown.