> The small piece just above the cob in that picture is a mystery ...
It looks like one of the gluing blocks which connects the bottom case
trim to the case sides.
> as is the small piece in the upper right with the screw
> sticking out of it.
There are short wooden pieces which screw to the sides of the exhauster
bellows to connect them together. The effect is that each two bellows
function as if they were a single double-acting bellows. Look for
screw holes (through the edge of the bellows cloth).
> ... thinking that I would hold off until I saw how they sounded.
Well, valve pads are easily done later since they're on the outside.
But they're also relatively inexpensive and easy to install. New may
be "quieter" than old, even though both will seal okay.
> Any ideas on what kind of wood would be best?
I think a softer wood will be easier to work with, and will flex around
the shaft better. I usually have scrap laying around.
> I'm guessing that brass [screws] will be correct material, given the
> age of this unit.
Well, actually they were steel. Probably cheaper and stronger.
> Any idea what kind of screws should be used for the baffle?
Steel round head, rather large diameter, stubby, if I remember correctly.
> Are the nails correct for this unit, or should I only use hide glue?
Use hide glue, no nails. The only "hardware" I recall is that there
are some very small tacks used at the corners of the bellows cloth,
and some models attach the valve leather with small tacks in each
corner. In some models the base for the exhauster bellows is screwed
to the main "deck" so that they can be separated easily; that makes
recovering much easier.
Also, In the pictures I didn't see a metal support piece which attaches
between the two large "base" boards. It goes in the center at their
widest end, and should have been visible in your image DSC00068. It
keeps things rigid so that the glue joint (at the opposite end, where
your added "nails" are) is not stressed (as yours may have been).
Todd Augsburger - Roller Organs