I am not as fond of the smell (and origin) of hide glue as some
folks, and also question its value in pneumatic cloth adhesion,
where it can cause sharp edges to appear that cut the cloth when dry.
For this reason, I have used Aleene's Tacky Glue (available from most
fabric stores) with apparent great success (at least on traditional,
cotton-backed cloths).  It seems to be a very thick version of "PVC-E",
is water-based, grips quickly, and is easy to use.  (But I still wear
gloves and get good ventilation, because of the vinyl content.)

Furthermore, it is superb and easier to use than hot glue for various
action felts, and etc., and will not make the felts too stiff (causing
clicks and such ) if a little too much is applied.  And I consider
objections that it is "hard to remove later" moot, because I never
sand pneumatic edges anyhow (to preserve dimensional integrity) and
I find it as easy to remove as hide glue if the pneumatics are simply
laid in groups edgewise on damp paper towels after their cloth has been
stripped off as well as possible, so the moisture can work in from the
sides.  (And then I scrape off the remaining cloth and glue with a
knife edge.)

Similarly, it can be removed from other places after a little
brushed-on water application.  It is available in an extra-thick
version (great for vertical action felts) and other formulations that
may be useful for other types of material, but these _may_ be harder
to remove later, so I've not tried them.

Can anyone provide me with a reason other than "tradition" to not use
this stuff?

Gordon Stelter

P.S.: Because I like to minimise my involvement with killed animal
products for spiritual reasons, I facilitated the importation of the
artificial buckskin "Ecsaine" into the U.S., for availability to
rebuilders.  It was already being used by Yamaha and Kawai to replace
action buckskins, because it is more uniform and works better on butts
and backchecks and etc., and is now used by Mason and Hamlin, and
likely all other fine piano makers.  I have not tried it out for valve
leathers, yet, but will run some tests for airtightness and report
back, if no one else does first.  (Pianotek in Michigan is handling
sales.)

I am also testing a vegetable-based glue for the hinge ends of
pneumatics, where I don't want the "rubbiness" of the Aleene's or
any other PVC to impair their flexibility.  I was sent a sample from
a manufacturer for this, who assured me that it dries "very brittle",
so that's good!  But the adhesion factor remains a big question (and
whether it would prove a suitable substitute for pneumatic to deck
gluing, where later removability _would_ be a major issue).

Curiously, I have discovered, by researching on the Internet, that
vegetable-based glues were available in the 1920s with, apparently,
every quality deemed desirable in hide glues for this work, including
a fast set-up "grip", strength, and the ability to be softened later,
via heat.  The apparent lack of their availability today seems not
based on performance inferiority in any regard, but simply the massive
amount of "slaughterhouse waste" available to glue manufacturers as
a cheaper "raw material".

Gordon Stelter

ALEENE'S ORIGINAL TACKY GLUE
Synonym Name(s): Water-Based Adhesive

 [ The manufacturer, Duncan Industries, states that "Aleene's Original
 [ Tacky Glue" is a water-based polymer emulsion adhesive.  It is
 [ rumored to be polyvinyl acetate (PVA), like Elmers white glue,
 [ rather than PVC-e, but I couldn't find confirmation of this.
 [ -- Robbie