Hi Stephen K.Goodman and Digestees!

Thanks to Les Smith and Stephen K. Goodman for your very helpful
explanations of pillow-pouch making in the Digest recently [96.04.15 &
96.05.05], and to Mike Ames and David Wasson for calling with their
lengthy explanation! Now all I need is the time to get to my Phillips
and apply the info.  (And about 3 stout lads to help lift the heavy
action out of it - being vastly [but beautifully] over-engineered, as
the German Orchestrions were.)  For those interested, my PC-7 is just
like the one pictured at the top of p.568 of Bowers' "Encyclopedia of
Automatic Musical Instruments"; except mine doesn't have an automatic
roll-changer (sigh).

It's a very clean piano, with no cracks in the soundboard (none
visible, at least) and the beautifully engineered suction pump operates
via a metal camshaft - no wooden pump sticks.  The pulley nearest the
motor in the picture is directly on the camshaft.  The pump has not been
recovered but looks brand new.

The one component missing is the motor! Does anyone have any advice as
to a suitable American replacement? Or, perhaps, a spare European
original they'd be willing to sell? I know I need a slow-speed motor
(1025 r.p.m.?), but what H.P.  would be adequate? The double-reduction
built-in via the pulleys means the speed will be greatly reduced, and
the effective H.P. increased, so I doubt it would need a very large
motor.  I realize the electrics will need re-wired in any case.

I made a mistake in my original post by saying the pillow pouches are
pouch leather - they are, of course, zephyr skin - a material I've not
worked with before.  I don't believe there's any coating on the existing
pouches, though it would be hard to tell after all this time.  Stephen
says the zephyr skin is very porous but I thought zephyr skin
was_less_porous than leather? I'll have to check that one out as I sure
don't want to alter the bleeds - which would be impossble anyhow as
they're a celluloid strip buried down in the beautiful wooden tracker
bar/bleed box/fluf-catcher ass'y.  One curious thing about the Phillips
PC-7 is the roll runs backwards - from bottom to top! It uses the same
Mandolin-PianOrchestra (PM) roll as other Phillips and Wurlitzer
PianOrchestras, but reads it upside-down! Wonder why?

It has a 30-note Xylophone (top 30 notes) and the lead tracker-bar
tubing for those 30 notes runs directly up to the xylophone valve box
FIRST, and then back down to the stack valves.  Odd?

Mike Ames was nice enough to call and explain in great detail how he
and David Wasson had figured out a 'production line' method making for
pillow-pouches.  In the interest of adding to our 'pool of knowledge'
here, I'll try writing it up.  If Mike and David read this and I've left
out any important bits, please let me know so I can make corrections!

They made them in a long 'tube', using a turned metal mandrel, and cut
them up in little pieces afterward.  He first opened a few pouches up
using a microwave oven and calculated an average size for the longest
dim.  Then, subtracting about 1/8" overlap, turned a round metal
cylinder a couple feet long the circumference of the needed size.  They
next covered the mandrel with a layer of Radio-Shack plastic shopping
bag material so the zephyr 'tube' can be slid off the cylinder easily.
(Mike says the R.S. bags are the most 'slippery'.)

Using a syringe, they apply a thin bead of *liquid* hide-glue along one
edge; roll the z.s. around; run a finger along the seam to seal it and
leave it sit to set up.  Then it's slid off the mandrel and cut-up into
the required lengths, allowing for about 1/8 in. extra on each end
which will be glued and folded-under to seal the pouches.  Each one is
flattened and creased, with the seam in the approximate center of the
bottom (where the hole will be).  Mike punches the holes with a
hand-held 1/4" paper hole-punch and he used paper hole-reinforcements
for the gaskets - the hide glue on the reinforcements sticks like mad
to the z.s. [Problem is finding the reinforcements.  I can't find any of
the old-style which were some kind of woven stuff.  All the new ones
seem to be plastic and self-adhesive, which won't do at all.  I have an
old box of them, but not enough.  Anyone have any they'd like to sell,
as their value just increased dramatically!? :-)]

Then he uses the syringe again and squirts a very thin bead of glue
inside each open end and folds them under; placing a weight on them
'till they're_almost_dry.  He said if one catches them before they're
completely dry you can 'pop open' any that are sticking in the corners
of the fold by placing the hole over a 1/4 in. nipple and *gently*
blowing on it.  The pouch will pop open, and any stuck areas will open
- unless they're too badly stuck, in which case they're tossed away.
This is also how they're checked for leaks once they're dry (the
escaping air can be heard and felt).  Allow for a few extras anyway, as
some will doubtless be useless.

That's about it for the Patented Solana Instruments Method <g>, and I'm
most grateful to Les, Mike and Stephen and all who've helped me out
with the art and science of Pillow Pouches!

About the liquid hide glue: It may not be available outside the U.S.
Here, it's made by Franklin (of Tightbond fame [or infamy]).  I think
it's composed of a mixture of hide glue and glycerin (along with some
form of anti-rot ingredient), so the hide glue remains liquid at room
temperature.  I haven't tried making my own, but I'd bet adding glycerin
to hot hide-glue would work?? Anybody tried it? Craig B. perhaps?

Thanks again, and I'm anxiously awaiting the new song, Stephen!
Anything I can do to help?? Oh, and to Phil Jamison: I need a couple of
lamps too!!!