John Phillips writes:

> There is a problem with plugging the holes with dowels afterwards and
> that is that the screws will be going into end-grain timber.  This
> means the thread in the wood will be weaker, but what's the
> alternative?....

The dowel should be placed at an angle to the line of the screw-hole,
perpendicular is best.  One cannot always put in a dowel perpendicular,
but if it can be at such an angle that the new screw will go THROUGH
the dowel's sides, it will work.  You will then not be screwing into
endgrain.  You do drill pilot holes for new screws.

The "trick" with bondo may work for awhile, but if the wood shrinks and
expands the screw may pull loose.  Bondo does stick to the wood better
than other wood-fillers, but it must be anchored by some means, to be
able to keep screws in place.

BTW, 2 things to prevent this problem of stripped screwholes.

I use an impact screwdriver (which twists when you hit it with a
hammer) to remove stuck screws.  Gets those rusted screws out every
time, because you release the tension on the threads, at the same time
you torque the screw.  Secondly, use screw grease (rather than soap or
none at all) to lubricate those screws, especially ones that will be
removed and put back a number of times.  A local pipe organ builder
says the ideal substance is the wax ring used for sealing toilet
bowls.  Costs about 75 cents.  It doesn't harden, lubricates well,
doesn't soak through the wood, easy to buy, etc.  Makes my life
easier!  You should have seen the face on the employee (baby?) at Home
Depot when I told him I was looking for screw grease.  I quickly
explained.  ;-)

Regards, Robert