Brett Mohr wrote:

>    As I start to remove the old pneumatic cloth from a set of Simplex
> unit pneumatics, I wondered what methods other rebuilders use for this
> task. I have peeled the old cloth and then sanded them, and that works
> well but it is very time consuming plus it is very easy to cause damage
> by over sanding. I have experimented with a steam iron to heat the old
> cloth then remove it and scrape off the old warm glue, This works
> pretty well and is alot faster but I am unsure just how much glue do
> you need to remove from the wood? With out sanding I can wet the wood
> and feel the glue is still there because it gets very sticky. Will this
> be a problem or will it work as a base for the new hot glue to adhere?
> I have not yet tryed the torch method yet but might give it a go. An
> old rebuilder told me he used to soak them in water for a few hours and
> then peeled and scraped them clean and he said that he never had a
> warping problem ( I am a little leary of this one ). Any one have a
> thought about this?
>                         Thanks
>                            Brett Mohr  mmohr@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu

I used a tea kettle on a hot plate with the whistle removed leaving the
1.5" diameter spout open. I then put in an entire unit pneumatic which
potrudes from the spout about 2" since the wedge shape keeps it from
falling into the boiling water. About 10 seconds later it'd take it
out.  The old cloth comes off very easily and the halves of the unit
pneumatic can even be seperated with a sharp putty knife without
splitting the wood!

I then dropped the parts into hot water from the tap and let them soak
only a few minutes.  this softened the remaining glue enough to make it
removable with one of those synthetic steel wool replacements (brand
name scrunge) used to wash teflon cookware.

The result? beautifully clean unit pneumatic parts.  No splitting or
warping since the wood was not soaked through as soaking them overnight
might cause.  The key is not to steam or soak too long!

I have a question regarding Simplex valves.  I have a set of Player
Piano Company Simplex replacement valves and I've noticed that the
fluted valve stems fit more loosely into the valve seat hole than does
the metal guide on the original valves.  Should I use the new valves as
is, get larger stems for them or do the totally anal and historically
correct thing and redo the orignal valves?  The piano is of British
manufacture and of questionable quality.  the stack is two-tier which,
I understand, is unusual for a Simplex.

-Ed