First a couple of questions:

   Does anyone have experience, either good or bad, with the new water
based wood grain fillers?

   I read somewhere that latex rubber bands have a high sulphur
content and are not good for old paper such as piano rolls. They also
do not last very long and turn to goo and break. I like the idea of
keeping air out of rolls, with bands, to keep the acid at bay. Does
anyone know if butyl rubber bands cut out of bicycle inner tubes would
be hazardous to rolls?

   After reading Craig Brougher's condemnation of carpenter's glue, I
have another to add to the list. Gorilla Glue (a urethane resin glue)
was recommended to me as an excellent glue, especially for bonding
difficult to glue resinous hardwoods such as purple heart. It is true
that it sticks well enough (the wood breaks before the bond when
tested) but it is flexible and creeps just like alphatic resin glue. I
glued up a countertop and sanded it to perfection only to find that the
when the boards relaxed (they were dry, purple heart just does this)
the glue joints moved and the top is now uneven. The next time I will
try the Milligan & Higgens hot glue and see if it sticks to purple
heart.

   I was also pleased to see the I am not the only one who notices
when finish manufacturers change their formulas. In the past when I
used to do more finish work I found that it tooks years to really learn
the properties of a particular type and brand of finish only to have it
change. Lacquers are the worst as they are so touchy at best and so
mechanically different from the wood they are applied to. They dry so
quickly that they often don't bond well to the wood surface.  I like to
brush in a compatable sealer well thinned as the first coat with any
modern finish. Also pay attention to the manufacturers recommendation
as to when and how to apply subsequent coats.  Modern lacquers are
complex and varied formulas and have very specific application
requirements. Two finishes that I like that haven't changed much and
are quite reliable are: Pratt & Lambert clear varnish # 38 and Penofin
interior oil finish, natural (non V.O.C. compliant formula not
available everywhere.) It takes some practice and lots of coats to
produce a beautiful finish with the penofin but it is probably the best
finish for someone without spraying facilities. If anyone is
contemplating an oil finish, ask me about some hard learned
techniques.