Terry Smythe was asking in regard to the removal of epoxy on tracker bar
nipples. I have done similar things, not on tracker bars, but on other
parts in which epoxy was used.  This might help solve the problem.  It
might also help solve the problem with valves which stay down too long, as
a little bit of air under a pouch caused the pouch to be slower returning,
all the way to never returning at all, or actuating as soon as the player
has vacuum.  All of the above.

Since the bar is going to have to be re-tubed anyway, cut the tubing and
remove the bar.  Put it into an oven set for about 350-400 degrees F, and
get it good and hot.  Using a combination of chisel and tubing puller you
made from a screwdriver, and an awl, you will be able to drag off sections
of that tubing. The chisel is used to make cuts between nipples sometimes.
The awl is used to refashion the nipple end back to round and to realign
the nipples that crowd their neighbors, and the tubing puller of course,
drags the tubing off the nipples, hopefully with the epoxy. (I haven't
encountered metal-filled epoxy, so I don't know if this works on that).

Now let's suppose you still have trouble.  By warming the epoxy, you are
going to soften it some.  That will aid removal by paint stripper.  Once
you have chemically softened it, it should be able to be removed easily.
Some of our chemical engineers on this page will be able to tell us which
solvents or organic acids should work best with epoxy, and where to get
them.

The original rock-hard stuff still chisels out and loosens nicely with
tools, cold.  But epoxy grips lead tightly and may not chip off without
help.  This is why original materials are still the best -- it's take-
apart-able, and nine times out of ten the guy who will have the job will
be the one rebuilding it in the first place -- if he is to ever get it
right and fix the problem.

Craig Brougher