Sounds like what several others have had happen to them when using
the patent leather, Larry.

   The fix is (relatively) easy if that is the case.  Here is the
problem: When you use patent leather, you are using a material that has
a very "sticky" surface, in that it seats perfectly air tight on metal,
but will not slide to adjust.  All valves have to be able to seat each
time.  They are not like the valves in an engine.  They are not machined.
They have to be able to seat by tipping just a little each time they
are played, and then when they reseat on the inside valve seat, the
same thing must happen or it will not hold air.

   If the total seepage of each valve was no more than a #70 drill bit,
which is about the size of a pin, the total leakage would be 1/4" hole
drilled right through the reservoir.  So if only one valve wasn't
reseating for you, it could practically stop that player cold.  Here is
what to do:

   Get some TFE mold release spray, like the kind sold through
Graingers Supply.  Remove the inside valve plates and give them about 6
coats each, allowing them to dry between coats.  do the same to the
leather-- with maybe 1-3 coats.  Test it first before replacing it.  Make
sure you feel a definite difference.  you want it to be able to slide
easily without the stickiness associated with patent leather on plated
brass.  Whatever it takes for one test valve, it will take for all.  once
you are satisfied that this is what will work, do it to all of them.
Whether or not this is the problem directly, do it anyway, or you will
be very sorry.

   Another common problem has been that the pressure collars are too
tight against the valve disks and will not allow them to tip easily.  If
they cannot effortlessly adjust as they operate, they cannot seal
regardless of the slickness of the surface.  Suede on metal valve plates
is no problem.  Corrected calf isn't either, as long as it isn't
lacquered.  But patent leather is vinyl and that's another breed of
cat.

   There is only one other possibility that comes to mind on this
player.  It could be that the pouches are too close to a few of the
valves, standing them open just enough that you can't develop any
vacuum.  So you may find you have a multiple problem.  Don't get your
valves any closer than a 1/16" to a pouch on that player, and better,
try an 1/8" between centers, since neither pouches or stem lifters are
all that true and straight.  The valve will operate faster, as well.

   I would like to congratulate you, Larry, for sticking with it and
giving your customer his money's worth regardless what it may cost you
in time to do so.  I too have had to take care of problems in the same
way, particularly when I first started.  It will make you "expert" more
quickly than anything else I know of.  Too many rebuilders just write
this stuff off.  You are to be commended.