•Alumiweld has been around for years and years, originally on the carnival circuit and then the old car show circuit along with the old tractors, etc. I know one of the originators of the demonstrations stands, from Waterford, Michigan. I have used Alumiweld for years, and have had good results with...

•I looked up "alumiloy" on the internet and found it to be superconducting cables for Hi-Fi. I eventually found that the product Mr. Hodge is referring to is actually "alumaloy" with an "a" in the middle instead of an "i". The web site I found it on is http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ The specific pro...

•I would like it to be clear that I don't know anything about or have used the product at the web site listed by the editor [www.alumiweld.com], so I can't say that it is the same product. The only product I have worked with is the A-16 rod. It could be the same or it could be different. I do not kn...

•Hi All, I've had two experiences with soldering in 'extra' nipples to a trackerbar. In both cases, it was an auto-sustain hole that was added, so it was away from the main note nipples. Still, the immediate problems were (a) getting the area cleaned and fluxed so the solder would stick quickly (b) ...

•I clearly don't know quite what I'm envisioning here, but as I read the discussion about resoldering the tracker bar I was wondering if the nipple was essentially a cylinder and thus whether it would be ever worth considering placing it into the chuck of an electric drill, placing it into its home ...

•I also had an experience attaching a nipple to a tracker bar. The problem started when I was removing the old tubing and getting it prepared for new tubing. One nipple broke off. Apparently the nipple was not too-well soldered originally. Not being a soldering expert, I was very skeptical about usi...

•Ref. 070208 MMDigest, Acetylene Flame Soldering (Spencer Chase) I hope you are using the proper ventilation when you are heating zinc and zinc alloys and galvanized sheet as it is very easy to get zinc poisoning from the fumes. Die casters had problems with it in the early days. The torch you are d...

•Hi, I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned using "Tix Solder" for this job. Tix is a very strong solder (4000+ psi) that melts at about 275 degrees F., much lower temperature than ordinary solder. Tix iridium solder was invented in the 1940s by a fellow who was making jewelry. He wanted to add som...

•Hi All, Mr. Kim Bunker here from playerpianos.com. Replacing ivory keys is really easy! First of all, if you need to have a source of original ivory tops and tails, you usually get these from a piano rebuilder or someone who replaces keytops for piano dealers. You can try to get as many as possible...

•Sorry for the late reply, but I cannot with good conscience leave the issue as it was suggested using Krazy Glue to glue ivory keytops. The method that I learned for replacing ivory keytops uses a special clamp for the purpose. I was able to obtain a set of them on eBay but I also have seen them in...

•John et al, I basically do the same thing except, instead of using paint, I use PVC-E glue. I prepare the wood, as usual, then apply a medium coat of PVC-E glue. In the glue, I draw a zigzag with thin CA glue. Position the keytop and press. Hold it for a few seconds and wipe off the excess PVC-E gl...

•> Third, use a clothes iron and heat the ivory until it slips off. > (Remember, I mentioned that the mixture got warm as it was setting.) > Naturally, the heating technique can scorch and discolor the bone ivory. In response to John Tuttle's comments above on repairing ivory keytops, certainly the ...

•I am in the process of buying a 5'8" Mason and Hamlin Ampico grand and I have a definite key problem. Hopefully, someone will have some experiences and suggestions on this one. The piano was restored in the 1970's or 80's but the key tops were replaced with keys that actually fit like dental caps o...

•The go-to guy for keys is Michael Morvan: www.pianoandorgankeys.com www.thepianorebuilders.com Regards, Jon Page

•Hello MMD. My previous query about lower valve seats (080207 MMDigest) must have been so longwinded that nobody got to the end of it, where the actual question was, because I got only one reply. So this time I'll be more succinct. In September, 1996, I wrote to MMDigest describing a method I had de...

•I have found that Super Glue in the hole often is enough to firm up the wood and provide a solid hole for the screw, with no additional materials. This idea was given to my by an experienced rebuilder whose work I have always admired -- very accurate work. David Dewey

•-- non-subscriber, please reply to sender and MMDigest -- Hello everyone: I am new to the forum and I just recently purchased a Steinway Duo-Art upright. The piano action is good and sound, however, when you plug in the motor and turn it on you will see the pump is slow. Disconnect the drive belt a...

•Please don't replace the steamboat pump. If you take the time to restore it, you will have a very silent and well operating pump! I know it takes more effort, but its well worth it, in my humble opinion. Bob Hodge

•I have a really old (1906) pneumatic instrument that has about 65 small bellows covered with rubberized cloth. The cloth was deteriorated to the point where many folds and even some flat areas were totally without rubber -- you could actually see the weave of the cloth. Since the pneumatics were fi...

•Paul Tang asked about a slow Duo-Art 'steamboat' pump in yesterday's MMDigest. If the pump is original, I'm sure it needs complete rebuilding. Any attempt to soften and seal the cloth usually results in a mess that doesn't end up working all that long anyway. If the pump hasn't ever been rebuilt, h...