Richard Vance mentioned that I use yellow glue on pipes.  The idea here
is that a well made wood pipe should never have to be taken apart.
When pipes come apart, that is a problem, not an advantage.  The only
exception here is the cap which is often glued on, especially on small
pipes.  For this we use a white tacky glue which grips without clamps,
can be moved as required for a minute or two, and can be removed by
clamping the cap in a vise and racking it gently until the joint
releases.  Excess glue dissolves quickly in hot water on a rag.

Count me among those who hate hot glue.  While I respect the rights
of others to choose to use it, or to pay for others to use it on their
behalf, I have found no good use for it in a modern shop.

When we restore electro-pneumatic actions, removable parts like
primaries are attached with gaskets.  Pouchboards are designed to be
cleaned up with machines, usually a sander.  Wood parts of primaries
and motors are almost never cleaned up for releathering.  It is much
faster to make new parts.

There is one chest design common around here that uses a rectangular
pouch glued to a wood block which in turn is glued and nailed into the
chest without gaskets.  We pull out the nails and rout out the
remaining wood.

For regulator hinges, the rubber cloth hinge that folds around the ribs
is best attached with a god contact cement.  The outer hinge of leather
or rubber cloth goes on with tacky glue, as do the gussets, for which
we use deerskin for its outstanding formability.

John Nolte