I think one could agree from the many recent postings from rebuilders
that there is a consensus that hot animal glue is tried and true and is
still one of the best glues to use, especially when gluing wood to wood
preferably with some kind of gasket material in between to make it
easier for the next guy (or gal) who may be asked to rebuild the piece.

I have seen no postings about practical tips for successful hot gluing.
I would imagine that there are some novice MMD readers who might
benefit from some basic tips, so here are a few of my suggestions:

- Be sure that you are working in a heated area.  It is best to have
room and wood in the 70 degree plus area.

- Use glue about the consistency of pancake syrup heated to at least
140 degrees.  I constantly use a dial meat thermometer to monitor glue
temperature.

- Pre-fit and pencil mark each piece to be glued on so you know
beforehand exactly where it must fit.  Quickly apply a coat of hot glue
with a brush using a pat-pat method rather than trying to paint it on.
Quickly (don't dilly dally here) get the pieces mated before the hot
glue can develop a film and then clamp in place for 10 minutes or so.

- Be aware that hot glue will often creep into places beyond what you
are gluing so try not to over-apply glue and position the pieces so
that any possible run-off does not enter critical areas such as valves,
bellows hinges or the bellows itself.

- Clean up any visible squeezed-out glue on outside surfaces within
30 minutes or so as it gets really hard to remove when totally dry.

- One final caution -- hot glue does not mean the type of glue produced
by a glue gun and glue cartridges.  You don't want to use that stuff!

Larry Schuette
Raymond, Nebraska

 [ See "Source" at http://www.mmdigest.com/Archives/KWIC/G/glue.html
 [ One recommended source (among many) is http://www.leevalley.com/ 
 [ Another is http://www.pianoteksupply.com/   -- Editor (Robbie)